Painting a metal cannon barrel
 

By Russ Holm
Austin Armor Builders Society
July 7, 2006 

Introduction 

This procedure attempts to duplicate that gunmetal/cast iron/deep blue/black, steel look found on Civil War cannon, heavy/light machine guns and light armor gun barrels. I was once given high praise by an individual who, while looking at cannon I had built, said “It looks like if I tapped it, it would go PING!” Now that’s a metal finish!

Nothing that I will say here is cast in cement. I would encourage anyone to experiment and change things in an effort to improve the methods outlined. After all what we are trying to do is fool the minds eye.
Steps to Painting a metal cannon barrel 

1.   Make sure the plastic/resin is clean and free of any contaminants.

2.   Airbrush about 2 coats of Gunze Sanyo, Mr. Metal Color Acrylic, in Dark Iron.

3.   Let it dry about 30 minutes.

4.   Using a soft cotton cloth, buff the finish until bright and shinny. A good cloth is an old T-Shirt.

5.   Airbrush, using a thinned, (like a heavy translucent wash) mix of Testors Semi-Gloss, black enamel. Apply in a cloud pattern heaver in the recessed areas, lighter on raised areas or edges. Shoot for contrasts. This is a reverse panel fade process. Darker in the middle, lighter to the edges.

6.   Let it dry for 30 minutes to an hour.

7.   As you look at it, the finish is somewhat dull. If that‘s the finish you want – stop. If you desire a slight shine, buff gently with the soft cotton cloth. The more you buff (to a point) the brighter it is going to get. YES! I know, it feels a little sticky at the moment. You can control the bright or shinny areas by only buffing those areas if desired.

8.   Using a good soft chisel brush prepared in Mr. Metal Color, Dark Iron or Iron, DRY BRUSH, VERY, VERY, lightly only the highest point or points of wear or contact. When I say dry brush, I mean a brush, where after it was dipped in paint, you have painted the paint out on to a soft cloth until nothing more appears on the cloth. There will be no need to use the cotton cloth. As you brush rapidly with the brush, this will buff or polish the highest highlighted points.

9.   If slight rusting in corners is desired at this point a drop/dab touch of RUSTALL™ works well. Repeated applications may be necessary to get a severe affect. I prefer a more subtle indication of neglect.

10.  Done.
Variations to the processes and notes 

  • You can substitute Testors Metalizer Stainless Steel, for the Mr. Metal. It doesn’t work quite as well; you will have to work a little harder with the buffing. You may have to use the soft cloth in step 8.
  • No, I haven’t tried an acrylic semi-gloss black in place of the Testor enamel. Who knows it might work better, and be less sticky.
  • Yes, I know as you go though the above process and for a few days afterward, the finish feels tacky to the touch. That’s the reason I use a plug in the cannon barrels or some way to hold the parts other than by hand if I can help it.
  • No, I haven’t tried priming the parts first. But, I’ve been thinking I should give it a try. A light prime for the brighter look, maybe black for a darker more shadowed affect.

    • Experiment, give it a try, have some fun!

    Russ Holm

    Examples of the finished barrels 

    Russ Holm's 10inch CSA SeaCoast Howitzer Russ Holm's 10inch CSA SeaCoast Howitzer Russ Holm's 10inch CSA SeaCoast Howitzer Russ Holm's 10inch CSA SeaCoast Howitzer Russ Holm's 10inch CSA SeaCoast Howitzer Russ Holm's Ironclad Turret Russ Holm's Ironclad Turret Russ Holm's Ironclad Turret Russ Holm's Ironclad Turret Russ Holm's German SdKfz 231 Armored Car

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